Yellow gold, this Dorian Gray of a Champagne is remarkably fresh with an immediate depth to the aromas combining grilled nuts, ginger/spice and smoky sandalwood notes, and then, on taste, there’s a light underlying sandalwood toastiness, with farm butter, pine and dried apricot, almost like a white Rhône; and thanks to such substantial aromatic depth, it’s almost impossible to stop nosing it but that intensity is reprised in a rich intensity of flavour with underlying stone fruits supported by the bubbling of a gentle pressure and a mouthwateringly dry, almost salty underpinning. Like a Montrachet with bubbles, it has enough life and vibrancy to evolve for at least another five years, possibly up to 10. 97 points - Anthony Rose, The Real Review